Foreigners browsing route data bases about east german or czech sandstone climbing areas might do so with Google translate or a similar tool, but often this may yield in missing or misleading information. The following table lists some of the most common phrases found and shall help to avoid mistakes.
german |
literal translation |
meaning |
Um die Sicherung braucht man sich nicht kümmern |
Don't bother with pro. |
There is none. |
Übersichtlich gesichert |
The protection is easily overviewable. |
There is hardly any, and you are supposed to recognize that. |
Da oben liegt eine Schlinge. |
There is a sling above there. |
You may place a knot as pro there, provided that you have the correct size and the ability to do so. |
Hier braucht man keine Schlingen zu legen. |
You don't need to place slings in that route. |
Don't expect bolts either. |
Der Weg ist akzeptabel gesichert. |
The route is reasonably protected. |
You don't hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point. |
gebietsuntypisch gut abgesichert. |
Pro is exceptionally good compared to local standards (Adrspach). |
You don't hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point. |
Die Absicherung ist etwas problematisch. |
The protection is problematic. |
You hit the deck if you fall at the most difficult point. |
Das könnte zu Unannehmlichkeiten führen. |
This could cause inconveniences. |
You crash into the boulders. |
Sternchenweg, * |
star rated route |
recommended and overcrowded route, or: the FA is somehow affilated to the climbing guide author |
Ausrufezeichenweg, ! |
exclamation mark route |
the exclamation mark is typical symbol for insufficient pro |
langgezogenes Sternchen |
stretched star |
a stretched star looks very much like an exclamation mark |
Der Weg hat ein Prädikat |
This route has a rating/attribute/award |
Although star ratings are most common, "strenouos" or "choss" are also attributes, and the most likely in the context is "insufficient pro" |
Dies ist für Meilensammler. |
This one is for earning frequent flyer miles. |
Good chance for taking >50' falls. |
Kann man nicht jedem empfehlen. |
This cannot be recommended to everybody. |
climbed only by the insane. |
Für moralisch gefestigte Risskletterer |
For morally strenghtened crack climbers. |
Others will not survive. |
Den Fehler macht man hier nur einmal. |
Mistakes are made here usually only once. |
Corpses don't get a second chance. |
Da ist ein Landekreuz am Einstieg. |
There is a landing cross at the start. |
This route has caused at least one climber to bite the dust. |
Hinterlässt einen nachhaltigen Eindruck. |
Leaves a lasting impression. |
You shit your pants. |
ENU |
Extrem nachsteigerunfreundlich - very unfriendly to followers |
Usually exhibit features as long sparsely protected traverses or downclimb, so that the second one also gets a chance to shit their pants. |
Alter Klassiker, es sind noch niedrige Begehungen zu holen. |
This is an old classic and you still can score a low rep count. |
Such horrible that most locals avoid this for a reason. |
für Liebhaber |
for lovers |
For climbers with a perverted taste. |
Die Kletterei ist nicht langweilig |
This climb is not boring. |
But possibly a horror trip. |
In diesem Riß braucht man nicht zu klemmen. |
You don't need to jam in that crack. |
You can't, its an offwidth. Instead you have to struggle until puking. |
da muss man mal die Hände aus den Taschen nehmen |
here you have to take your hands out of your pockets |
this is really bloody hard |
da muss man einfach mal losmachen / losklettern |
you simply have to start / climb |
You can't do anything special. So get a move on and climb / fight like a man. |
Gut zum Üben. |
Good for training. |
Will punish those badly who are not perfect in the corresponding technique. |
Einige Griffe sind etwas knusprig |
Some holds are crispy. |
choss |
interessante Gesteinsqualität |
interesting rock quality |
complete choss |
hautunfreundlich |
not skin-friendly. |
You get grinded down to the bones. |
frauentauglich |
Suitable for women. |
You don't get grinded down to the bones. |
Riss |
Crack |
Default is offwidth |
enger Riss |
narrow crack |
narrow offwidth, usually off-fist |
Saugend |
sucking |
Very good jamming handcrack |
Hundebahnhof |
dog railway station |
A widening in a crack. Akward is the part where it narrows again. Especially awful is narrowing from squeeze chimney to off-fist. |
MK3 |
Menschliche Knotenschlinge Größe 3 / human knot size 3 |
Means on belay, that you have to jam yourself into the crack/chimney as pro as there is nothing else. Or worse, someone else has to sacrifice his arse as pro and while squeezing in a hundebahnhof is praying that you don't fall. |
Keimig |
sprouting |
wet and green |
kein Felskontakt |
No contact to rock |
You dig upwards through sand, earth and brushwood |
Nett für den botanisch Interessierten. |
Nice for botanical inclined. |
You have to fight your way through weeds, thorns or wet algae. |
Die Stelle ist interessant. |
This part is interesting |
Nobody has an idea how to climb that. |
etwas größenabhängig |
This is a bit size depending |
Don't try if <1.90m |
erfordert eine Mannschaftsleistung |
This requires teamwork |
Weird human pyramids are mandatory. |
erfordert Kreativität |
This requires creativity |
hardly anybody has done this by fair means. |
Delikatesse |
delicacy |
especially weird and pervert climb. |
Mitnahme einer Bürste wird empfohlen. |
Brush is recommended |
Not climbed for ages and needs carefully cleaning before getting a chance to score. |
Nichts für Fettleibige |
Not recommended for obese. |
Squeeze chimney, only acceptable for children or dwarfs. |
mit peristaltischen Bewegungen kommt man höher. |
done with peristaltic movements. |
worst kind of squeeze chimney. |
Das bringst Du! |
You will do it! |
Your actual chances to success are about 40% to 80%. But your effort will be guranteed entertainment for all spectators. |
Den Weg muß man haben |
This route is a must |
This route consumed up all my physical resources, I shit my pants, nearly puked, still have nightmares and I want you to share that experience. |
Das ist ein Scheissweg. |
This route is shit. |
I failed on this route. |
großes Kino |
great cinema |
Fun and thrilling entertainment for the spectators, an epic for the actually involved |
Grades (offical grade translation see e.g. http://www.coronn.com/TOPOS/ratingsystems/grades.pdf)
sandstone grade |
US grade |
comment |
VIIb / VIIc |
5.9 / 5.10a |
For a long time the upper end of the scale, especially in czech republic. There you might end up with 5.11+, R-rated in the worst case. |
VIIc extremny vystup (old czech guide) |
5.10 |
Will make you freak out. Not for normal mortals. |
VI anstr. |
5.7 strenuous |
Typically a seldom climbed classic. It is strenouous, but rather 5.9 than 5.7 and pro is x-rated. |
V anstr. |
5.6 strenuous |
Same as above, but typically 5.8 with x-rated pro |
IV anstr. |
5.5 strenuous |
Nobody climbs that, so I can't comment. |
Last changed: 8.9.2009 Jörg Brutscher